Is it possible to tile a ceiling

If it is plywood, not OSB, not pressboard and not luan you. Get down as deep as you can, all the way through is the goal. Then get a wallpaper scraper with a 4" blade and scrape up the vinyl and the paper backing. If some of the glue stays behind thats ok as long as it doesn't interfere with setting the tile flat.

Thats another reason to go with the cement board, it will minimize some of the uneveness due to having the thinset under the board before it is installed. Tiling over plywood can be done as long as certain conditions are met, most of which are more easily addressed when it is new construction. You should also be aware that the subfloor needs to be stable enough to support ceramic tile. Yinyl and wood have more flex and can handle the bounce in a floor whereas tile will come loose or crack.

Can you tell us what the size of your floor joists are eg - 2x10 , their spacing eg - 16" on center and the length of the unsupported span eg - usually from a foundation wall to a lolly column supported cross joist or the opposite wall and how much and what kinds of plywood are on the floor now? He has gotten the vinyl up and has sanded the floor flat. If we put cement board over the plywood we're thinking it will raise the floor too high.

We currenly have hardwood floors but will be putting in carpet as the floors are too damaged to repair and refinish so we want the heights to be flush. Wish us luck! We will be trying to get the last of the paper backing up and tiling Saturday. Thank you for all your advice and help during this project!

Can you lay vinyl flooring over concrete? Or over a tile floor? We are re doing master bathroom ceramic tile set in concrete wondering if we can lay vinyl over it without having to bust up the original floor. Probably not a good idea as the indentations in the grout lines will show through over time. If you flash the grout joints and sand the edges smooth that might work but I dont know what type of material would be used. The vinyl could be laid over the cement slab, but it has to be real smooth, no rough spots or broom finished.

Just wondering, thanks. I am not sure what you are asking about. Masonite is the name of a corporation. Siding is one. Tempered hardboard is another. That is commonly used for peg boards although it is available without the holes.

And as is common the original product it calls by the company name and vice versa. But Masonite went on to develope a number of materials. Fill in between the border tiles with full-size tiles in an expanding wedge pattern, gradually extending the rows of border tiles and fanning tiles out to cover the entire ceiling.

Note: To work around light fixtures, hold the tile up to the ceiling before applying adhesive. Mark and cut off the portion to be removed, then apply adhesive and slide the tile into place. Step 7: Continue setting tiles until you reach the far corner of the room. Before cutting border tiles for the two far walls, measure the gap left beyond the last full tile. Mark and cut border tiles along these walls one by one to make sure they fit the gap.

Some ceilings are too uneven or badly damaged to install tiles directly on them. You need to use furring strips to even things out. Instructions for doing this are in the next section. Step 1: Locate each ceiling joist in the room, and mark them on the ceiling. Nail 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 furring strips at right angles across the joists and along the edges of the ceiling with 6d common nails, 12 inches apart from center to center. Use a carpenters' square to make sure the strips are even and properly angled.

Cut the strips to fit. Step 2: To mark the lines from the starting corner for the corner tile and the first two border rows, carefully snap a chalk line each way on the furring strips. Trim tiles to this dimension. Step 3: Attach tiles to the furring strips using a heavy-duty stapler and staples of a length specified by the tile manufacturer.

Staple at an angle through each tile's grooved edges, then slide in the next tile's tongued edge to interlock the tiles. Step 4: Cut the corner tile and set it into place, grooved side toward the center of the room and centered on the furring strips. Staple it to the furring strips, setting three staples along each exposed grooved edge. Nail the other two sides firmly into place with 4d common nails, as close to the walls as possible.

Step 5: Continue across the room, setting border tiles and then filling in with full tiles, sliding new tiles in to lock over old ones as you go. Staple each new tile with three staples along each grooved edge. Step 6: Fasten border tiles into place at the wall, driving three nails along each trimmed tongued edge, as close to the wall as possible. These nails will be covered by molding.

The walls and ceiling are HardiBacker I have been told to cover with 3 coats of RedGuard for waterproofing. Is this going to cause the ceiling to give way as the bond will be to the waterproofing? This will fill the pores of the hardi and act as a priming coat.

Apply that and let it cure, then go over it with the additional coats. Hi Roger, I wanted to say thank you for the great explanations.

Hopefully the tiles will remain in place. It will hold just fine. The AD fills the pores of the backer and, once cured, has a fairly tenacious grip on it. Am I a crazy fellow being too cautious and scared of concussions or are those product going to be fine and stick together fine?

Mepelastic is not approved for use over drywall. The thinset will stick to the membrane, and only the membrane. As far as the bond to the drywall itself, I have no idea, there is absolutely no data on it anywhere. I would NOT trust it on a ceiling. The drywall will likely not hold those sufficiently. I recently had a similar situation as I was remodeling our master bath.

I screwed cement board over the drywall on the ceiling, making sure the screws were long enough to have plenty of holding power and more numerous. Everything is solid and looks great! What makes the bullseye create suction? Could it be straight rows of mortar allow air to go back in and circles create a trapped area where air cannot go back in?

Earl Friesen. Basically, yes. Yes, you can do it on the ceiling. With tiles that small you do not need to do the bullseye, although you do need to put thinset on the ceiling in order to get them up there.

I just wanted to be sure because my house was built cheaply not by me… and the strong winds we get here move the entire house. That is correct. With silicone any movement in the ceiling will not be transferred to the tile on the walls below. Hi, First of all, great post!

I am a DIY, but since I remodeled one house down to the studs and back, I am pretty brave about trying new things. I plan on buying a home in the near future and am considering installing a small steam room.

The ceiling will have to be something other than flat, so I was thinking perhaps an arch-shape which will mean mosaic tiles will be easier to install on the ceiling. With mosaics coming in more of a sheet, I was unsure how the bulls-eye method will work. Would I do it with the entire sheet?

Individual mosaics? Will I need to do anything additional on the ceiling-either in terms of materials, underlayment, or preparation- due to the high heat and humidity? I also plan on using epoxy grout I know this is harder to work because it cures so hard and so fast , just to add an extra layer of moisture protection. Thanks in advance! Bullseye will not work with mosaics. With mosaics you just want to ensure full coverage. Prep on the ceiling is the same as everywhere else.

I have done a small amount of tile work, but not sure installing mozaic tiles. If any of those are the case, use regular thinset. Hey, about to try this method. Fingers crossed. We tiled the shower ceiling using your method and it worked great. We were using 8X24 tiles so we made two bullseyes on them and they stuck great. Thank you!

Great article. Two things, I sound like the suggestion is to screw in the existing drywall substrate to reinforce everything and keep the weight from pulling the nails out. Suggestions on nail spacing? Two, burning. When burning do you apply, let dry then tile or get the tile up prior to the thinset drying?

You can do either, it is MUCH more beneficial to install while still wet. Great Post! I will try the bulls eye this weekend. Keep the great posts coming!