What baitcaster should i get

Like you said, I want the rod in my dominant hand, and don't want to have to switch hands after casting. But that's just me. Re: Right or Left Handed Baitcaster Post by mark poulson » Mon Oct 05, am i think it's because, originally, freshwater baitcasters were scaled down versions of salt water reels, where power cranking is the key.

Since four out of five people, including fishermen, are right handed, and their strongest hand is the right, it made sense to make salt water reels right handed, and the first freshwater baitcasters followed suit. I am right handed. I have both left hand and right hand reels, and I'll say you can do well with either, if you fish enough. Repetitive motions create muscle memory, so the act of switching hands after casting becomes unconscious.

As I said, I have both, due to an injury which forced a temporary switch to lefties, but I fish mostly right handed reels now. But, if I were just starting out, I'd probably use only left handed reels, because the logic of having the reel ready to set the hook without switching hands is pretty stout.

Re: Right or Left Handed Baitcaster Post by Brentwood Bob » Mon Oct 05, am mark poulson wrote: i think it's because, originally, freshwater baitcasters were scaled down versions of salt water reels, where power cranking is the key.

Re: Right or Left Handed Baitcaster Post by Bassinlee » Mon Oct 05, am I started out with right hand cranking baitcasters as well until I tried using my buddy's left hand model. Therefore, the higher the first number, the faster the retrieve.

Generally, ratio is considered slow, is average, and or higher is pretty fast. You will need to consider what type of lures you will be using to decide what ratio you select. For diving crankbaits and large spinnerbaits, a slower retrieve is recommended, even as low as For Texas rigs, jigs, and soft plastics, something in the area of is a good choice.

For some spinnerbaits, buzz baits, and other lures that need a fast action, you can go with a or reel. If you are pursuing larger and stronger fish, you will inevitably need heavier line, which will take up more space on the spool. A baitcaster reel is completely different in design from a spinning reel. First, the reel faces upwards from the rod, whereas the spinning reel hangs down from the rod.

It takes some fine-tuning to get it set up just right for your needs, but when you do it can be a serious weapon to have in your tackle box. Baitcaster reels provide more distance control when casting.

This is why professional and tournament anglers like to use a baitcaster reel, as they can throw their bait and lures right on the money. When you cast you can apply pressure on the line with your thumb to slow the cast down and ensure you drop that bait right on the exact spot you intended.

While this can be done with a spinning reel, it is not as easy as with a baitcaster, and not as accurate either. Baitcaster reels are generally much lighter than spinning reels, and this makes a big difference if you are going to be throwing lures repeatedly for long periods.

They can also cast further than spinning reels, which can be an important factor for some anglers. Baitcaster reels are generally much more compact in size and design compared to their spinning reel equivalents. This makes them much more manageable and when paired with a light rod, it can make for a very effective combo. Retrieve rates on baitcaster reels are faster than spinning reels.

They also have a lot more line capacity. This is due to the position of the spool, which allows the line to peel off in the same direction as the rod, whereas the line on a spinning reel peels off at a degree angle, which causes the line to twist and loop. Baitcaster reels are generally more expensive than spinning reels, and they are more complex to use.

They have a more quirky design than a spinning reel, and it certainly takes some getting used to. The main thing that makes a baitcaster harder to use than a spinning reel is the casting technique. A common issue with the less experienced users is called backlash or over-run. This is when you cast, and the spool turns faster than the lure or bait flies through the air.

Baitcast reels come equipped with braking systems. These adjust and slow down the rotation of the spool during the cast. Without this, the dreaded backlash would be forever happening. For those unaware of the term, it describes the knotted mess of line you are left with when your spool continues to revolve after your lure has stopped moving forward. The spool tension knob is your first line of offense for adjusting spool speed. It is the large knob found on the reel handle side.

Tighten this knob enough, so that when you disengage the reel, your lure will slowly fall to the ground. Once it makes contact, the spool should stop revolving almost immediately. The heavier the lure, the tighter the tension should be. Centrifugal brakes are friction based, and utilize pins inside the side plate of the reel to make adjustments. To engage the brakes, push the pins outward.

For a six-pin system, always adjust pins that are across from each other. Both should be either on or off. Magnetic brakes work on a more complicated principle, but rely on the spool and magnets to decrease the spool revolution rate. They are also adjustable by the angler. No matter what breaking system a reel has, learning to thumb the spool correctly is still your best bet for trouble-free casting. Fine tune each time you're on the water with the various breaking systems, but let your thumb do most of the real work.

Frames: Come in either aluminum or graphite, with the latter generally less expensive and lighter in weight but not won't withstand much abuse as aluminum.